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Bamako, restdays !

2 december, bushcamp somewhere in Mali

the next reports are in english especially for my dear half dutch cousin who still cant read any dutch :}

3 days have gone now since we left Kayes and it was almost all off road, some 250k. After we left the town of Kayes we soon ended up on a dirt road full of dust. First we should pass an old ruin after 12 k but unfortunately we missed the sign. That was off course because after one rest day some still were thinking its all a race so everyone rushed off, speeding out off town. Some uphills but the road wasnt bad and i had a good day. But after a while i was fully covered in dust. Its amazing how a 100.000 plp town suddenly ends and you are in the middel off nowhere.

Staying in a bushcamp is not really my hobby due to the lack of privacy and after its getting dark there is not much to do. Bedtime is then 7 or 8 pm. But with my laptop i still can watch some episodes of CSI. The next day was supposed to be rather easy with 80k off road. Normally a 4-5 hour ride, including breaks. Right from the start is was singletrack through the bushes. We left as a group because of the maze of track, 'roads', sandpaths, goat- or cowtracks, the risk of getting lost was to high. I hate riding as a group because you are pushed in your pace too much. After 25k we came across the most beautifull waterfalls. They look like the niagarafalls but a bit smaller and without any tourist, buildings or even a road to it,just a singletrack which is probably a goathtrack.One of the world's wonders in the middle of nowhere and very few people have ever seen it. Wonderfull !.

Just look it up at google or wikipedia and you will be amazed, one of natures secrets. We spent some time there and then went on. Because the truck and the van could not take this road, this stage would be without a lunch or water-stop. Waterrefill would be by a villagepump added with havrix if there were any villages at all. Normally no problem but after a while the road turned into a dusty track with just loose sand. And with 40c then another 35k is a long, long, longway. On and off the bike to push the bike through the sand, ride for a couple of meters and push again. The lack of food and water took a lot from all of us. We passed a few nice villages with huts of straw and clay and two of them had a pump. But even two times 4 bottles refill was not really enough. Energy levels dropped rapidly. At about 10k from the town we were having our camp some had to give up, were dehydraterd, had to stay in the shade, and could not move any further and they sent for the truck to pick them up. I moved on slowly stopping regularly, riding and pushing all the time. Fortunately i met the truck which was going to pick up the other riders so i could have another waterrefill, which i needed desperately. And after nine hours of struggling with the rotten sandpaths i finally reached the end at a campground in Bafoulabe. There was an oppertunity to rent a room which i did off course after such a day. It was not much, but it had a bed , airco and a shower: all i needed.
After dinner i soon fell asleep and had a good nightrest. The next day i started in the van as the day before sucked up too much energy, as it did with a lot of others who started in the truck or didnt finish the next day either. I finished the second part of the next stage, which had a 2km climb in it of 5-10% which was pretty hard in the heat. Now at another bushcamp next to a straw-hut village. Its better than slightly away from the village because then all the childeren come and have a look, which is nice but sometimes annoying. When you camp right beside a village and ask the elders for permission they will keep an eye on you and their childeren, so actually its very quite with visitors now.

3 december, Kita, Mali

a few minutes after i wrote this about 30 children showed up. But it was good fun, they were all very polite, as most malineze people are. First all shake hand, also the children, and bonjour ca va, ca va bien etc. The children were of course very interested in what we were doing on our laptops and gathered around each of us who were working ontheir laptop.

They didnt ask for a cadeaux or so and were very nice. Lateron the elders showed up, shook hands, bonjour, ca va, oui ca va bien etc.. Most malineze dont speak french very well so its mostly hands and footwork to communicate. When we started our dinner, the elders called their childeren and it was quite again.

Off course i had the bushcamp shower again. Amazing how good you can clean yourself with just two bottles (1,5 liter) and a bit of soap. Actually one bottleis enough, but the second one is for the bushcamp shower 'Deluxe'. No need for a real shower then anyway. So people: get rid of your showers, just two drinkingbottles a day is enough.:}

One disadvantage of staying close to a village is that they off course have lots of animals, like cows, donkeys and chickens. This made sleeping a bit hard as the donkeys made a lot of noise during the night, IIAAA, well eventually they went to sleep as well and so did i.

In the morning a woman from the village came and brought us a pan full of 'oliebollen' which tasted exactly the same as in holland and were still warm and very nice. Didier our truckdriver, nurse and with lots of knowledge of and experience in africa wrote a letter to the 'chef de village' to thank him for letting us stay in their village. Didier is a great guy, very quite but sees and knows everything. I learn a lot of him, he knows (african) people and how to deal with them.

At eight o clock in the morning after breakfast (usually a few pieces of french bread with peanutbutter and a (instant) coffee) departure again for the next stage. It would be a long one (again). First 75k unpaved again and then some 50+k paved until Kita. I was not intending to do the whole stage as i still felt not very strong after the last demanding days, but eventually i did finish it all. The first Ks i was confirmed inmy bad fitnesslevel asmy muscles and legs still felt tired but after an hour or so it was getting better. The road led through multiple villages and beautiful scenery. Mali is a wonderful country with lovely people, especially the women look very nice, smart and well dressed (no worries Hilda :}, and almost all have a nice smile and a good laugh which needs little to trigger. I wish i could spend time more often with all these people i meet but then i wouldnt be home for xmas 2012. Also the childeren are great , most come running out of the fields or villages yelling and chearing and wanting to shake hands or high five and probably some more but most dont speak french so i wouldnt know what they would be saying. As for the scenery: apart from some duller sections Mali is great, more like a combination of Australian outback and Grand Canyon like scenery, but then with Baobabs and African villages and people in it,well, its more like Mali actually. Its even quit lush and vertile, lots of cotton, corn, other plants and trees, but maybe thats because we are following the Senegal- or whatever-river. There arent many mosks, like in senegal and gambia, although Mali is supposed to be islamic as well, but for that i have to consult Wikipedia first. The news on Mali was that you couldnt get any beer or wine, but also thats not true, you can get on every corner of the street and in bigger bottles than you ve ever seen ! Yeah, I love Mali !!!

During riding on these road i think of a million things, especially what to write on my blog of what i all see and experience but its actually to much to write it all down, too many impressions, sights, sounds, smells and people. But i will give it a try someday. I hope the pictures speak for theirselfs.

Well, finally after some 350km of off road we finally reached the tarmac world again, what a relief, especially for my hands, which on the bumpy roads had a lot of bumps and hits to absorb. Although temperatures probably reached 40 again the heat didnt bother me so much anymore. Actually i kind of start to like it. No, it was the wind, again. All the way head wind. f.c..g headwind. And then 130k is pretty long. We had an extra water stop at 90k which was good because i almost ran out of water and with 40k to go thats not good. I just managed to find a coke in Tambage, a small town, but without any shops or stores, but i am starting to learn to find the right spots, even if they dont look like a shop, sometimes, hidden in a hut, there is some warm coke to find. Yeah!

The last 30 k were very hard, muscles felt heavy and i used a lot of shadestops, but by 5 pm i reached Kita. I got completely lost in this town and asked around everywhere for Hotel Refuge. Most people prefered to speak in english rather than french, but when i showed them a map of Kita and the name of the hotel, it appeared that nor they couldnt read or never had seen a map of their own town so that didnt help a lot. Eventually by coincidence (in a town of 100.000 people) i met a guy from the hotel we were stayingat and he escorted me through town to the hotel with his scooter, i would never have found it myself. Yes!, made it again 132K ! through a boiling wind. Two days to go and then restdays !!!!!

4 december 2011,

Heep heep hoeree, its my birthday today. 45 and still going strong, although.... the first 50k of the day were ok but then all energy flowed out of me, legs, tows, bum, back, hands, everything started to hurt. I managed it to lunchcamp at 65k and then after lunch i stepped in the van. I promised myself a birthdaypresent and not to hurt myself anymore on this great day. And as a bonus i decided to take the next day off as well and add another extra rest day to the restdays we were going to have. Last 3 weeks were very tiring. I was at bushcamp pretty early and put my tent up far away from the rest. Didier found a nice spot again in the middle of a green forest with lots of shade and pretty cool temperatures as well. It was about 300mtrs from the road and not visable for anybody else, if it wasnt for the flag we always put out whenever there is a lunchcamp of bushcamp hidden away from the road, as a sign for the cyclists that camp is there. But this time the flag took attention from the local authorities as well. Four men in armyclothes in a big pickup truck came to visit us. We appeared to be camping in a national reservation of somekind, well other than trees there was nothing to see but we werent allowed to camp there. But after some hard bargaining it was possible to bend the rules a bit for just 15.000 CFA (some 22 euros). Until now we hadnt met any 'corruption' of this kind. Mali, Senegal and Gambia, were all very friendly to us. We passed lots of police checkpoints and could ride on easily. Just wave friendly, 'ca va' a bit and if neccessary even make compliments about their outstanding uniforms and how nice their country is, and off course we all cycled all the way from europe to see this magnificent country, well that makes an impression !. A small joke will break the ice in a second as well. Al least thats how it goes sofar. Once we come further south in more equatorial regions, corruption is supposed to get worse and w'll have to do some more bargaining. I maybe have said it before but Mali is wonderfull, very easy, muchnicer than we expected. Even Didier who visited almost every african country is pleasantly surprised about Mali.

At dinner we had beer, as a birthday present for me and i even got a grand-desert completed with burning candles and an umbrella on the sour cream-topping. I really dont like deserts but this one i couldnt skip. And of course everybody sang happy birthday to me, in the middle of a Malian, national reservate, where we were not supposed to be staying in, i think, maybe, its not possible, not likely even, slightly unrealistic or a little unthinkable, that i will have another birthday like this.

Well, nest day i stepped in the truck together with Bill who had been ill during the night and we drove into Bamako, the capital of Mali with 2 million inhabitants, so quit a big village, the fastest growing town in Africa. Riding into such a big african city is great, it gets busier every meter youenter town, also some sad sights of people crawling over the dirtbelts to find anything usable, but also many, many people on scooters and motorcycles. Once we crossed the Niger it became a bit quiter. For the first time in three weeks i went into some kind of supermarket, whith filled shelves, airco and stuff like shampoo, soap,food, drinks, chips and chinese crap-cadeauxs, what a wealth. Never thought to be amazed to walk down ilses of supermarketproducts, although its still just 4 weeks ago i had a croisant in the local Vomar.

We were in the ambassy area where our hotel would be.As we didnt have rooms enough i went out with a taxi to find more rooms for all of us. off course i didnt want to stay my rest days in a crappy auberge, i finally found a decent hotel with a pool, a restaurant and even a working shower in the room. Three stars Hotel for Mali, but -/- one star in Holland but its wonderful, a bit far away from the others butwe will be fine here for the next three days. Bill and Illka are also staying here. So tomorrow and the next day i will see how Bamako looks like, do some Xmas Shopping (wonder if they have Xmastree balls here?). I think after that i will be ready for the next stage of 6x >110km cycling to Burkina.

Although West Africa is considered to be flat, we already made about 6000 hms, apart from one section not very steep but always up and sometimes down. Wonder how the the next few 1000km are because they have not been explored yet.

Kayes, Mali

26 november 2011, Goudiye Senegal

This morning breakfast at 7 am after a good night sleep in a great bed and room with airco. Today 120km in front of us. First a stop at probably the last ATM we will see in a while. So fully loaded with hunderds of thousands of CFA we started our journey. It would be a long day with just one road to follow, 121k long and straight as a needle. The early ours in the morning are pleasant and good riding. I rode with Rob, the englishman and had a good time chatting about all different things, he's good company. It was getting hot pretty early and the wind started to blow early as well. Mostly at 10-11am but now already at 9-ish. Its not a very strong wind but its always there about 5-6bf and headwind of course. We took it easy so we arrived at lunchcamp at about noon some 70k further. In lunchcamp we were attacked by bees again so we left early. We were the last ones to get out of lunchcamp. I would do the next 50 k alone. Especially in the heat i prefer to do so so i can stop were, when and how long i want and if it so hot i stop regularly, whenever a treewith shadow looks appealing. Even when i promise myself a stop in 5k and i see a good tree and shadow its a waste not to use it for a minute or two and cool down a bit. The road was just one long line without any bends in it so looking up to the end was not very inspiring. There was no end to this road, long and straight and pretty boring as well as the countryside, just trees and bushes, no towns or villages, no children shouting 'Tubab' or 'ca va' just the occasional car or truck. So what should you do then: counting Km poles? no.. it goes very slowly and you are constantly reminded of the distance still to go, trucks beside road fallen over or burnt? no.. too many !, tires besides the road,the same, dead animals? you could smell them but not see them all. So then just listen to some music which really keeps me going when its so long and hot (over 40 again). Sometimes in the distance it looked like there was a bend in the road, wow excitement ahead ! what an adventure would be waiting for me, what would be behind the bend, maybe a very long downhill, yeah !! or even an other bend or maybe a colastop or even better a McDrive !, but non of this would happen, after the bend the view would be the same again a long straight road with no end to it. So a bend in the road or even a sign of a bend was all the excitement there was on this 120k straight hot line. But eventually i reached the end and completed my first 120k+ stage in 40 degrees, wasnt going easy but i made it.

29 november Kayes, Mali

De laatste 2 dagen waren zwaar, vooral in mentaal opzicht. We hebben nu ca 300km rechte saaie weg gefietst, nagenoeg geen dorpjes en dus colastops of een praatje. Ook het landschap gaf weinig afwisseliing al zie het wel langzaam veranderen,van meer bergoeiing naar nu sahelachtig landschap, kaal minder bomen en struiken. De grensovergang naar Mali was daarentegen wel weer interessant. Aangekomen in Kadira, het grensplaatsje in Sengeal was het laveren tussen de honderden vrachtwagens die wachtten op toestemming om doorte gaan of onderweg waren. Eerst de exitstempel halen, drie kilometer het dorpje in en weer uit. Daarna weer terug, daarna over de brug (de grens) en daarna de volgende drie kilometer, tussen de vrachtwagens door op zoek naar het juiste kantoortje om het entreestempel te halen voor Mali. Uiteraard eerst 4x van het kastje naar de muur maar dan toch nog gevonden. Een kilometer of 5 verder had Didier een mooie plek voor een bushcamp gevonden, ver weg van de weg en tussen de Baobabs. We moeten een beetje uitkijken in deze buurt. Het is er wel veilig maar het nieuws over de kidnapping van een aantal toeristen in Timbuktu en evacuatie van andere toeristen naar Bamako vraagt wel om extra alertheid. Het nieuws houdt ons toch wel bezig. In het bushcamp en de dag op de fiets erna zat ik er aardig doorheen. Al fietsend op zo een saaie weg gaan je gedachten alle kanten op, vooral naar huis. Ook vandaag weer lekker alleen gefietst, en als laatste. Ik vertrek vaak ook als laatst en weet dan dat er niemand meer na mij komt. Geeft toch nog een beetje gevoel van vrijheid want het groepslevenen de afspraken die daarbij horen vallen mij toch wel tegen. Om 7 uur ontbijt met zn allen, dan lunch op die en die plek, savonds om 6 uur eten met zn allen. Het voelt wat benauwend, niet vrij. Aan de groep ligt het niet, stuk voor stuk aardige mensen maar af toe zou ik er het liefst alleen op uittrekkenen zelf beslissen waar, wanneer ik stop, eet, slaap.

Naarmate de weg Kayes naderde kwamen er meer dorpjes. Bij het eerste bord 'Ici Coca Cola' gestopt maar de cola was op dus werd het een Pomme de Jus-Stop. De bebouwing in Mali is toch weer anders dan in Senegal, meer stenen huizen, al zijn de meeste niet afgebouwd. Ook de mensen zijn wat meer ingetogen, zwaaien wel terug maar niet zo als in Senegal. Bij binnenkomst in Kayes ging de spirit weer omhoog. Fiesten door de afrikaanse steden en dorpen is geweldig. Alles vind buiten op straat plaats, er is weer verkeer en mensen. Kayes is de heetste stad van afrika. Tot nu toe valt het wel mee. ca 38c. Vandaag niet veel last gehad van de hitte maar we waren dan ook vrij vroeg op de plaats van bestemming. Ca 13.00 uur. Uiteindelijk het hotel gevonden aan de rivier, waarop ook weer van alles plaats vindt. Bootjes, wassen etc. Vandaag een rustdag die ik goed kan gebruiken. Wat uitrusten, een internetcafe zoeken, wat 'shoppen' op de markt, fiets poetsen e.d. De was heb ik afgegeven dus die zal wel in de rivier gewassen worden. Hopelijk krijg ik die op tijd weer terug. Zonet nog even over de markt in Kayes gelopen, alsof je in een film loopt, fotos nemen gaat wat moeilijk in de drukte maar het is weer een hele belevenis op zich Uiteindelijk een cybercafe gevonden maar niet die moderne die ons belooft is, hopelijk vind ik die nog en kan dan wat skypen.

geen fotos bij dit verhaal want dat laat deze hypermoderne computer niet toe. kijk dus maar voor wat plaatjes in de fotoserie die ik net een voor een heb moeten uploaden a 5 min per foto

This is Africa

23 november 2011, janjang bure bush camp Gambia
In Kaolack we stayed in a comfortable 'hotel', basic but fine, with shower a bed and even airco and Wifi, so skyping home for a while was good. The morning after we had a 120 k ride ahead of us to a bush camp in Gambia. Kaolack is quit a town with 170.000 inhabitans, we cycled right out of town with 7 cyclists on a nice and quite road. Temperatures were pretty fine in the morning. After one hour or so somebody wondered if we were on the right road and we started to have a look at the map, oh, oh wrong road. We cycled a bit further and asked in the next village if we could take a shortcut to the road we were suposed to ride on, the anwer was no and we had to go all the way back, so after ca 2 hours and 52k already behind us we started our 120k ride !
At the first cola stop i found i had a flat tire, damn. Although i had the tires and tubes wich were not supposed to go flat, it happend. As i couldnt pump up my tire because of the valve i needed a big pump, so i went into the small village. Some guy told me that the 'reparateur' only lived 20mtrs ahead, but he turned out to be in the fields. After a few other of these addresses we eventually ended up with a guy with the big pump. The whole village turned up to see how they screwed up my valve so i had to replace the tube, with many spectators to stare at my bicycle-reparation skills.
A half hour further i was on the road again. As the group already left i rode the next 70k alone which was great at my own pace. Cycling was going well. At lunch most of the original group who made the extra ks stepped in the Van. I cycled on to the gambian border. But at a beautiful place not far from the border my other tire went flat. Not being able to pump it up again i phoned richard who waited with the group at the gambian border. So i had to step in the van as well. Border crossing went well and after 3 stamps we could enter Gambia. Not much further the Van made a strange noice. After a quick look some rubber valve appeared to be broken. Slowly we managed to reach bush camp, a nice place Didier had found a few hunderd meters from the road. Being already late i had to rush to put up my tent, eat, repair my bike and have a bushcamp shower,being: take a drinking bottle, some soap, leave camp and look for a bit of shelter and there is bushcamp shower, its a treat !
The next day we had to cycle to Georgetown some 112k. I think the day before where i had to do the extra 52k was a bit too much. Cycling was shit ! no energy and cyclng with a group doesnt help as you cannot ride your own pace. Besides that it was boiling hot again, head wind all the time and the road only was going up. I still cant get used to so much heat. Besides that my behind hurts like... Well, after finally reaching lunch camp some 65k further i stepped in the van. Today was too much again. Fortunately i wasnt the only one. Some didnt even start. Finally a rest day at a great place at the Gambia River, an own hut, a 'shower' and a day without cycling , i was looking forward to this day.
Rest day: we made a little trip to Georgetown which actually is not more than a small village with some history. Getting out of the boat inmediately we were swarmed by young guys asking all the same questions: whats your name, where you from etc. and they all want to be your guide off course and if not something else, like a gift a donation to buy a football....We visited the old slavery market, the local school and the hospital which was quite interesting and gives a glimps in local life and problems. its just then when you see what the problems of Africa are. People look happy, especially in Gambia which is a pleasant and english speaking country. But if you see how and with which means they have to manage healthcare and education chances of ever gettng out of this mess are slim. Good to see that also here there is a local doctor who is dedicated and takes care of the whole community. tomorrow presidential elections, we saw lots of 4x4s of the commonwealth observery team but also a car of the president saying 'thank you for the 2011 election victory'. I am not sure what the observers are going to observe then ! In most countries of West Africa, electiontime is a dangerous time. Gambia is hopefully quite tomorrow. Back in camp just a quick nap and fixing the tape on my wheels which probably was the problem of the flat tires as it had no punctures in it.
Tomorrow: 94k of gravel ahead of us: i dont want to think about it now.
24 nov.Fulladu Camp
Vandaag dus de 94 km unpaved. Viel reuze mee en was een super weg om te fietsen. Wel veel kuilen en gaten dus veel laveren maar het was echt afrikaans rode grond met veel dorpjes met hutjes van riet, bebossing hier en daar dus af en toe een boom om even in de schaduw wat te drinken. Alleen geen echte dorpen dus geen colastop helaas. Heerljk gefietst in mijn eentje. Het was vandaag niet zo heet, ca 36 C. Het ljkt alsof ik iets begin te wennen aan de warmte. Alles ging goed tot km 35, opeens lag ik op de grond. Waarschjnlijk een steen niet gezien. Knie open en mijn hele arm onder het bloed. Even afwassen met een bidon met water en doorfietsen dan maar.
Een bus zou er niet komen. De hele weg geen auto gezien. Wel dus veel dorpjes en mensen op de weg lopend richting 'polling station' want vandaag zijn de verkiezingen. Bijee lokale kiesbureau stond smorgens vroeg al een lange rij.
Onderweg kwam gelukkig ook de truck met Didier onze verpleger langs. Hij heeft ervaring in rampgebieden zoals Haitie dus mijn arm en been moest hij ook wel kunnen fixen. Idd schoongemaakt, verband eromheen en weer door. Er zaten dre flinke gaten in mijn arm en een in mijn been. Wel hechtingswaardig maar met een dik verband moest het zo ook wel lukken. Alleen het schoonmaken met alcohol was 'allerminst prettig'. Bijna door de grond.
Na ca 50km lunchkamp maar veel tijd heb ik niet genomen, gelijk door want nu was het nog vroeg en het ging net lekker. Om uiteindelijk 1 uur in het kamp aan de Gambia rivier aangekomen, gedouched en van een heel nieuw verband voorzien door Didier. Mn hele arm zit nu in t verband en mn knie ook.
Vandaag weer geen internetcafe ondanks dat ze er in het dorp aan de overkant vd rivier wel zijn. Election day dus alles dicht. Morgen maar weer (hoop ik). Dus maar even wat kleren wassen in net zo rood water als het zand van de dirt roads. Waarschijnlijk zal ik morgen dus wel in de roze trui fietsen. Fiets in de rivier gewassen want die zag er ook niet uit en alles piepte en kraakte. Ik heb als enige een hut geboekt op de camping. De rest slaapt hun tent. Kost maar 350 dalasie (ca 7 euro). Dus met al mn verband slaap ik lekker in een bedje en heb een eigen douche en Wc. Uit de douche komt weliswaar maar 1 minuut (rood) water maar dat mag de pret niet drukken. Het campement ligt er mooi bij aan de rivier maar is wel redelijk vervallen. Ze moesten het nog herstellen na het regenseizoen. Het lijkt mij echter dat het achterstallig onderhoud al iets langer op zich laat wachten, een jaar of wat. Ook deze Gambianen zijn weer erg vriendelijk. Leuk land dat Gambia. Kom ik nog eens terug want morgen gaan we weer over de grens naar Senegal, Tamacounda om precies te zijn.
25-11-2011 Basso santa Su
Vanmorgen zouden we vroeg vertrekken om 7 uur dus 6.30 ontbijt. Daarna op de ferry naar de overkant. Dat ging niet zo als gepland dus pas om 8 uur waren we naar de overkant. We moesten wachten totdat de truck op de ferry kon. Het was nml maar een klein bootje en als de truck niet mee kon dan hadden we een probleem. Maar uitendelijk kwamen we aan de overkant. De eerste 25 km zouden onverhard zijn. Er werd niet bijverteld dat het niet alleen onverhard was maar vooral droog zand. Dus ploegen door het zand. Onderweg zouden we ook nog twee douaneposten doormoeten, eerst Gambia uit en een paar kilometer verder Senegal weer in. Dat werd dus twee keer 18 paspoorten overschrijven in een groot boek. Na een uur of drie en de grensposten waren we dus al zeker 10km opgeschoten. Nog 15 door het zand ploegen en daarna eindelijk weer asfalt, althans dat was het spul dat ze om de gaten heen hadden gelegd. We zaten duidelijk weer in franstalig gebied dus helaas geen praatjes met de locals meer in het engels. Met mijn 'un croisant s.vp.-frans' kan ik mij toch nog wel redden. Ik heb het boekje Frans voor Dummies nog niet bestudeerd maar het lukt dus aardig.
Omdat het al zo laat was begon het al in het begin heet te worden, geen lekkere combinatie dus met zandhappen. ca 60km verder was het lunchkamp. Het was 38 in de schaduw en op de weg minimaal 43+. Bij het lunchkamp stapten al een aantal rijders in het busje maar ik zou toch nog een poging wagen. Na een kilometer of wat boog de weg om en was ook de schaduw van de bomen verdwenen en dus stinkend heet. Toen het busje mij passeerde heb ik dus toch mijn duim maar weer opgestoken. Was niet de bedoeling maar het was gewoon te heet en niet meer verantwoord. Daar kwam bij dat we vandaag in een mooi hotel met zwembad en internet zouden zitten. Als ik door zou fietsen zou ik pas tegen de avond aankomen. Verspilling van luxe dus.
Helaas ging ook deze rit niet zonder problemen want na 20 min. Lekke band. Dus in 42c een badn verwisselen van de bus. Ondertussen werden we aangevallen door honderden bijen of wespen die op ons voedsel afkwamen. Want wij gooien niet alles zoals de afrikanen in berm maar hadden een afvalbak met resten die we even buiten hadden gezet om het gereedschap uit de bus te halen. Richard, onze chauffeur zocht dus wat takken en stak deze in de fik om zo de wespen te verjagen. Gelukkig ging dus bus niet in rook op en konde na drie kwartier onze weg vervolgen.
Ik zit dus nu schoon gedouched en voorzien van een nieuw verband lekker in mijn airco gekoelde kamer. Ik geniet er nog maar even van want de komende dagen zal het voornamelijk kamperen in de bush worden. Dus wanneer het volgende verslag volgt......

De eerste fietsdagen

19 november 2011

At 9 in the morning we started our big africa tour but not befoe a group foto was taken off course and then off to Accra. The first few Kms were off road but doable, just along lac rose. But after a few kms the road already got worse and really sandy. Pretty hard to stay on the bike. Our late leave made it pretty hot already in the beginning. We entered the first few villages, kids shouting 'tubab' probably something like; 'strange white guy on a bike' all the time. Or they just shoouted 'cadeaux', unfortunately i didnt brng any for all the thousands off kids whom we will encounter along the road.

Alongside the roads near the towns its full off rubbish, its like riding acrross a dirtbelt all the time. After a few k's we entered turmac, finally, but s was a busy road so we had to ride in the shoulders of the road. Being only 52 ks long the first day should have been an easy day butit was not. I clearlyt had to get used to the heat as after 40k my light almost went out.But after a short rest and a cold coke the last 10 k were ok. Fortunately i was not the only one who had to get used to the heat, it was about 37c. The group has some real diehards and fully trained people in it so i think i will be in the backside of the group most of the time at least in the beginning. I will take it slowely the first few days and built up gradually.

On the 20th we had 128 ks ahead of us. started at 7.30h but already at ten it was boiling hot. so today after 70some ks i jumped in the Van as i didnt want to overheat myself in the first few days.It appeared to be 42 today. I feel that my body has to adapt some more before i can take the heat better. A comforting thought is that even the most experienced guys in the group had a very difficult day and some suffered a lot. I learned that keeping a slow pace (even if you think its to slow) and keep that slow pace on all the time works best in the end. So i will try that tomorrow when we enter Gambia and have some 108 ksto cycle, so hope for an early start.

Tomorrow bushcamp so no internet, after that Georgetown Gambia, where i probably will be able to update some more, for now, early to bed.

De eerste fietsdagen

19 november 2011

At 9 in the morning we started our big africa tour but not befoe a group foto was taken off course and then off to Accra. The first few Kms were off road but doable, just along lac rose. But after a few kms the road already got worse and really sandy. Pretty hard to stay on the bike. Our late leave made it pretty hot already in the beginning. We entered the first few villages, kids shouting 'tubab' probably something like; 'strange white guy on a bike' all the time. Or they just shoouted 'cadeaux', unfortunately i didnt brng any for all the thousands off kids whom we will encounter along the road.

Alongside the roads near the towns its full off rubbish, its like riding acrross a dirtbelt all the time. After a few k's we entered turmac, finally, but s was a busy road so we had to ride in the shoulders of the road. Being only 52 ks long the first day should have been an easy day butit was not. I clearlyt had to get used to the heat as after 40k my light almost went out.But after a short rest and a cold coke the last 10 k were ok. Fortunately i was not the only one who had to get used to the heat, it was about 37c. The group has some real diehards and fully trained people in it so i think i will be in the backside of the group most of the time at least in the beginning. I will take it slowely the first few days and built up gradually.

On the 20th we had 128 ks ahead of us. started at 7.30h but already at ten it was boiling hot. so today after 70some ks i jumped in the Van as i didnt want to overheat myself in the first few days. I feel that my body has to adapt some more so i can take the heat better. A comforting thought is that even the most experienced guys in the group had a very difficult day and some suffered a lot. I learned that keeping a slow pace (even if you think its to slow) and keep that slow pace on all the time works best in the end. So i will try that tomorrow when we enter Gambia and have some 108 ksto cycle, so hope for an early start.

Tomorrow bushcamp so no internet, after that Georgetown Gambia, where i probably will be able to update some more, for now, early to bed.

De eerste fietsdagen

19 november 2011

At 9 in the morning we started our big africa tour but not befoe a group foto was taken off course and then off to Accra. The first few Kms were off road but doable, just along lac rose. But after a few kms the road already got worse and really sandy. Pretty hard to stay on the bike. Our late leave made it pretty hot already in the beginning. We entered the first few villages, kids shouting 'tubab' probably something like; 'strange white guy on a bike' all the time. Or they just shoouted 'cadeaux', unfortunately i didnt brng any for all the thousands off kids whom we will encounter along the road.

Alongside the roads near the towns its full off rubbish, its like riding acrross a dirtbelt all the time. After a few k's we entered turmac, finally, but s was a busy road so we had to ride in the shoulders of the road. Being only 52 ks long the first day should have been an easy day butit was not. I clearlyt had to get used to the heat as after 40k my light almost went out.But after a short rest and a cold coke the last 10 k were ok. Fortunately i was not the only one who had to get used to the heat, it was about 37c. The group has some real diehards and fully trained people in it so i think i will be in the backside of the group most of the time at least in the beginning. I will take it slowely the first few days and built up gradually.

On the 20th we had 128 ks ahead of us. started at 7.30h but already at ten it was boiling hot. so today after 70some ks i jumped in the Van as i didnt want to overheat myself in the first few days. I feel that my body has to adapt some more so i can take the heat better. A comforting thought is that even the most experienced guys in the group had a very difficult day and some suffered a lot. I learned that keeping a slow pace (even if you think its to slow) and keep that slow pace on all the time works best in the end. So i will try that tomorrow when we enter Gambia and have some 108 ksto cycle, so hope for an early start.

Tomorrow bushcamp so no internet, after that Georgetown Gambia, where i probably will be able to update some more, for now, early to bed.

toch nog internet

Kom je terug met de taxi van een internet cafe 30km verderop en 3 uur verder blijkt internet gewoon weer te werken, lekker dan. Maar goed, nu tijd voor een wat uitgebreider verslag.

Sinds maandagavond zit ik dus bij Chez Salim een campement bij Lac Rose, 30km van Dakar. Heb een klein rond huisje met airco, een zwembad en het eten is hier eenvoudig maar prima, nog niet ziek geweest of i.d. dus zal wel goed ziijn. Inmiddels is iedereen ongeveer gearriveerd en gaan we morgen starten met een ritje van ca 50 km. Klinkt kort maar gezien het wegdek wat ik hier gezien heb zal de afstand wel wat langer zijn met al dat geslinger om allerlei kuilen en gaten heen. Het slechte wegdek is ook een voordeel, de autos rijden nml niet hard maar rijden vanwege de kuilen naast de weg, dus is het asfalt voor ons.

Vooral de dorpjes en het stadjewaar ik geweest ben doen erg hectisch aan met overal mensen, kleine winkeltjes en ambachten die buiten worden uitgevoerd. In de dorpjes en steden kun je redeljk vrij rondlopen zonder al te veel te worden lastiggevallen, behalve dan bij de uitgang van ons verbljf. Gisteren heb ik een lokaal ziekenhuisje bezocht waar ik een rondleidiing kreeg. Het was donderdag dus, inentingsdag voor polio, er zaten dan ook ca 40 vrouwen buiten op de grond te wachten met hun babys op inentingen. Privacy is hier nog geen ingeburgerd begrip want alles gebeurt in het openbaar, inentingen, consults. geboortes gaan nog net achter een deur maar toen ik daar binnenkwam was een dame nog maar net bevallen.

De chef van hethospitaal nog even ontmoet en hij blijkt echt een local hero te zijn, altijd beschikbaar en sinds ziijn komst is het aantal sterfgevallen door malaria en tbc tot vrijwel nihil gedaald. Het hospitaal is opgestart met behulp van de oprichter van de Parijs-Dakar Rally.

Blijft wel een echt afrikaans tafereel, vrouwen wachten buiten op de grond met babys al borstvoeding gevend, katten door het ziekenhuisje, bedden met gaten in matrassen (of andersom) etc. Volgens mij zag ik nog ergens een hondepoot of i.d. liggen, zal wel iets anders zijn geweest. In het ziekenhuis kun je tevens een geboorteakte krijgen.Voor ons normaal maar in Senegal is het sinds kort verplicht. Blijkbaar heeft 60% vd bevolking geen birth certificate, en kan dus ook niet naar school. Dat schiet lekker op dan.

Well morgen dus vertrekken. Wordt wel tijd na 4 dagen wachten. Weet niet wanneer er weer verbinding is maar dan doe ik verslag van de eerste rit(ten)

eerste dagen in afrika

Eindelijk internet maar het gaat moeizaam; de letters op mijn toetsenbord komen niet overeen dus het is een gepuzzel om een juist e zin te maken maar ik begin het te leren: al met al zijn de eerste dagen vrij relaxed; wennen aan de warmte en aan het drukke afrikaanse leven; wat een gekkenhuis op strqqt; dat wordt nog wat met fietsen; we vertrekken morgen; eindelijk wqnt ik heb er wel zin in: door dqt geknoei met letters is m, tijd al bijna om dus hopelijk later een uitgebreid verslag